Menu Setup You cannot view this unit as you're not logged in yet. Post navigationPrevious post: Setup And Field AdviceNext post: John Oliver Cabin – Field Demo 16 thoughts on “Menu Setup” Jeffrey Falk October 10, 2020 When using flash, I use the Rotoscoped Lite LED which has instant recycle this allows a 0 interval Used this this in the field and in Costa Rica on May 2019 workshop Reply Steve_Perry October 10, 2020 That would work – but – remember to NOT use silent shutter 🙂 Electronic shutter and flash don’t mix 🙂 Reply Jeffrey Falk October 10, 2020 Did you ever try using small video lights? I use them successfully for studio work and can use the electronic shutter. One of these days I’ll attempt using them in the field Reply Steve_Perry October 10, 2020 We’ve actually used them during workshops from time to time. They can work really well but you have to be careful with the color of the light. Reply Frank Bungartz October 13, 2020 Any suggestions about using Nikon’s R1C1 macro speedlights? Any ideas about their recycling times? They are not as powerful as the typical Nikon flash (guide # 33′ / 10.06 m at ISO 100)… I have generally been using these a lot for lichen macro photography. Generally at high magnification, i.e., 1:1 light is on the lower side even at f/8 and I am not too fond of increasing the ISO. Also, in very bright situations light may be sufficient, but shadows then tend to be very harsh (perhaps a diffusor would work). Reply Steve_Perry October 13, 2020 Hi Frank – I wish I had an answer for you. The thing is, it all depends on F/stop, ISO, and distance – and those can vary between shots. Additionally, I really don’t have any experience with the R1C1 flashes (although, I have seriously considered them – they are really cool). So I don’t have any firsthand knowledge. My advice would be to setup a test scenario or two and try them at home to get an idea. Reply Fred Peachman October 20, 2020 On Z6/7 “Focus Step Width” are you saying that the camera will programmatically choose the proper default setting, or that at a setting of 4 the camera will generally do the right thing? Reply Steve_Perry October 20, 2020 It’s an overlap setting – and I find a value of “4” seems to give enough overlap for good stacking with most subjects. The camera then takes this amount of relative overlap between images and adjusts the focus between each to maintain that level of overlap. If I want more overlap, I drop to 2 pr 3. Less, I go to 5. Reply Vernon Guidry October 30, 2020 Succinct, clear and very helpful. Another excellent piece of instruction. Reply Raymond Litschgy November 1, 2020 Steve regarding silent photography in focus stack shooting with the D500, would I still set the shooting mode to Qc and does the silent photography menu setting limit the number of shots? Reply Christopher Sherwood November 27, 2020 Just an FYI: another mode that will gray out the Focus Shift shooting option in the menus is if you have a bracketing program active. (ASK ME HOW I BLUNDERED INTO THIS KNOWLEDGE!) There are might even be other modes that will disable focus shift, but it’s definitely not just time/date, lack of AF-S, or memory card. Reply Michael Steinman November 29, 2020 I’ve noticed that when I use silent photography mode indoors under LED overhead lights, I get these horizontal dark bands in my images. The bands don’t appear in regular mode under LED lights, and they don’t appear when in silent mode under natural sunlight. I’m using Nikon D850. Reply dbcornue December 23, 2020 Steve, In the Photo Shooting>Focus Shift Shooting menu for the Z6ii, Focus Peaking Stack does not show up as an option (note I have updated my new camera to firmware C-1.02). This is all new to me – automated stack shooting as well as the Z6ii, so if you have any suggestions I’d appreciate it. If I go to Custom>Shooting/Display>d11 Focus Peaking an option for Focus Peaking Stack does not appear there either. Apparently something has changed with the Mark 2 menus as far as this goes. Thanks and Happy Holidays, Dave Reply Steve_Perry December 23, 2020 Sadly, it has. I was very surprised when I discovered it was no longer an option on the MKii cameras. Reply dbcornue December 23, 2020 Thanks for the reply Steve. That stinks, why on earth would Nikon take a step backwards???? It doesn’t seem like that is the kind of thing Nikon would normally do…… I have an unrelated question: I do some macro but mostly landscapes. If landscapes are the primary use case for stacking, do you still prefer Zerene over Helicon? With both landscape and macro manually captured stacks I have already run into edge problems and the like so from your videos here (great job by the way!) I can see where I need to move beyond PS for processing stacks. Thanks, Dave Reply Steve_Perry December 27, 2020 Sadly, it’s a new Nikon trend. My D6 no longer supports spot metering on a function button, the D7500 and D780 no longer support grips, the D7500 also lost the ability to use two cards and older lenses. The list is longer, but that’s off the top of my head. Not sure what they are thinking. For landscapes, either works fine. I still favor Zerene, but I’ll just as readily use Helicon. The truth is, most landscape stacks are super-easy for either program. I’m sure there are scenarios where one is a bit better than another, but so far I’ve not found it. Reply Leave a Reply Cancel replyYour email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment Name * Email * Website Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.