Gray Tree Frog – Stacking With Zerene Stacker You cannot view this unit as you're not logged in yet. Post navigationPrevious post: Flower – Stacking With Helicon FocusNext post: Download Central 18 thoughts on “Gray Tree Frog – Stacking With Zerene Stacker” Jeffrey Falk October 11, 2020 Using the Lightroom plugins for Helicon, Zerene and direct to PS, I find it so easy to load 100’s of stacked images directly into photoshop, select and use the plug-ins and then return to PS for editing and/or exporting to PS. Might be a good update to your LR series and of course this one Reply Raj Singh October 11, 2020 Steve, I have pretty much purchased all your content and loving it! Please also do a similar video for multi-row panoramas using a RRS gimbal and post-processing stitch in Lightroom/Photoshop. Please also complement all your e-books with videos since videos are so much easier to consume. I have one question on manual focus, when you turn the manual focus ring a picture of a flower and infinity appears in the view finder along with a solid bar in between. Similar to other mirrorless cameras (Fuji XT4, Leica SL2) can I turn the focus ring to align the solid bar between the foreground and infinity thus achieving hyperfocal distance. This business of using laser pointers and PhotoPils app is very cumbersome in the field. Reply Steve_Perry October 11, 2020 As far as I can tell, that’s just a distance scale, nothing more. It doesn’t change with F/stop and it should if it’s indicating hyperfocal distance. At the mid-way point, it’s nowhere near hyperfocal in the simple tests I just tried. Also, I usually just pace the distances off on the incredibly rare occasion I use hyperfocal distance. The vast majority of the time, I stack. Reply Marcelo Bass October 13, 2020 Excelent workshop. Congrats. Steve and many thanks. All is quite clear. However, for me (English is not my “lingua mater”) was a little hard to follow, since the words in some passages seemed me as overlapped as the pink flower petals… ha! ha!… Now, my main use of f.stacking is for landscapes. So, for that purpose, would you recommend H. Focus or Z.Stacker? . Another question: Did you say for stacks with less than 20 photos you usually uses Method A in H. Focus, right? Thanks again and have a nice day Reply Steve_Perry October 13, 2020 Either program should be able to handle it. As I mention elsewhere in the course, if I had to pick one, I’d probably choose Zerene by just a nose. With less than 20 images in helicon, I’d try method “A” but I’d still stack with all three and compare. Doing that have saved me a ton of time in the past – sometimes one method (one you may not expect) gives the best results and needs little to no retouch. Reply Mike Gifford October 14, 2020 Steve, I have Helicon Focus, Affinity Photo and PS. I’ve been stacking for panoramas mostly and sometimes for focus stacks of images. I find Affinity is much better for panos than PS, but I’ll give Helicon Focus a try at them as well. Any comments on Affinity Photo? Reply Steve_Perry October 14, 2020 Hi Mike – I’ve never used Affinity, so I can’t say. I’d say try Helicon and Zerene and see how it goes – free trials, so nothing to lose 🙂 Reply Robert Peterson October 19, 2020 Hi Steve, Great workshop. You sure cover all the details. It would be good to see the original stack compared to Lightroom finished. Reply Frank Bungartz October 22, 2020 Is there a reason, why you are always exporting as TIFFs ??? I know that Zerene Stacker does not accept raw files, but Helicon does. I am tempted to go with Helicon, because of that. I guess, if you always are adjusting the files in lightroom first, using the raw files is kind of obsolete, because these are necessarily just that “raw”. But would it make sense to export as DNGs instead of TIFFs and then use Helicon, which can deal with raw files? Or is it even necessary to first make these adjustments? If Helicon uses raws and also preserves the output file as raw, would it not be more powerful to do these adjustments on the final stacked raw file (and potentially save an editing step)? I guess I am confused quite a bit by the necessity for the pre-processing adjustments. You say they are minimal, but in the field you are also shooting manual to make sure lightning doesn’t drastically change. So, are these pre-adjustments even necessary then? To me it seems like you are doing the same steps twice at the additional costs of being able to edit a stacked Helicon raw file (which presumably is more powerful than editing an already processed TIFF) !! ??? Reply Frank Bungartz October 22, 2020 PS: And this is also of course about disk space. TIFFs are gigantic and you keep the original raws, even if you delete the TIFFs after processing they are, at least temporarily, a heavy load of duplicate files, which seems unnecessary. Time is of course also an issue, converting hundreds of images before stacking them and then processing them in the stacker all adds up. I read online that Helicon is generally much faster than Zerene – does that refer to the stacking only or is it in part a result of being able to skip the raw conversion? Reply Steve_Perry October 23, 2020 The reason I use Tiffs in the examples is because Helicon Focus relies on Camera RAW to open RAW files and not everyone has uses Adobe products. If someone doesn’t have Lightroom or ACR, I wanted to make sure the workflow was still adaptable. If you do have compatible Adobe products, using RAW / DNG is a good way to go. If you are using RAW / DNG, you can skip the initial processing steps. I’ve had this come up a couple times, so I may add a supplement video for it. Reply humphreyakufo-tetteh October 23, 2020 Amazing tutorial as usual Steve. Very thorough and concise, easy to understand even though I’ve never tried focus stacking before. As I said previously my D500 does not have focus stacking but I will try doing this manually, any tips? Reply Francine Dollinger November 2, 2020 I noticed you dropped the f stop and the ISO in the 2nd frog picture. Did the light change or did you notice you could because you saw the first stack Reply Steve_Perry November 3, 2020 The light changed a bit and I think I accidentally hit the F-stop and didn’t mean to. Reply Thomas Zwyssig November 4, 2020 I noticed you never use the tonecurve to make a Image more contrast ?? Reply Michael Steinman December 2, 2020 Great workshop, Steve! You have a gift for teaching. You get straight to the point, include all the necessary information, and somehow manage to answer nearly all the questions I had coming into each video. I just have two remaining questions. 1. Suppose I run a sequence of focus shifts on the frog, then I do it again, one or more times. For each focus point, there’s a reasonable chance that I’ll have at least one photo where the the frog is inhaling. Suppose I swapped out all the exhale shots from the sequence for an inhale shot from one of the other sequences, in an attempt to have a stack of all inhale shots. Assuming the light did not change drastically and the frog did not change position from one sequence to the next, would this be a recommended strategy? 2. The vast majority of my photography is of pit vipers. My experience is that they will hold their breath for a period of time (assuming they are calm) and then occasionally take a big breath of air. When you photographed the eyelash viper (or any other vipers you’ve stacked), did you get the entire sequence while the snake was holding its breath, or did you have an inhale in the sequence, and if so, how did you deal with it? Reply Steve_Perry December 2, 2020 1. It’s totally possible of everything stays put. In my experience, it usually doesn’t though! 2. They seem to breath much slower, so it’s never been an issue. Reply Paul Timlett January 4, 2021 Fantastic course. I’ve learned a ton of new stuff. Thank you. Reply Leave a Reply Cancel replyYour email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment Name * Email * Website Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.